Sudhagad fort trek: a quiet winter climb near Pali

Ask a Mumbai trekker about forts near Pali and most will say Raigad. Fewer will mention Sudhagad, a broad, flat-topped fort about 11 km from Pali that gets a fraction of the crowds. That is exactly why it is worth the climb.

The fort was once called Bhorapgad, after its goddess Bhoraidevi, whose temple still stands on top and is still used for worship. The Marathas took it in 1657 and renamed it Sudhagad. Local history says Shivaji Maharaj considered it for his capital before choosing Raigad, which sat more centrally. Later, under the Peshwas, the fort was looked after by the Pant Sachivs of Bhor, and their old wada is still there on the plateau.

The trek at a glance

• Base village: Thakurwadi, about 11 km from Pali
• Height: roughly 620 m above sea level
• Distance: about 3.5 to 5 km one way, depending on the route
• Time: about 2 to 2.5 hours up at a steady pace, plus an hour or more on top
• Difficulty: easy to moderate. Fine for beginners with basic fitness, but long enough to tire you out
• Best time: October to February for clear views and cool mornings. Monsoon is greener but slippery

Getting to Thakurwadi

By car, come via Khopoli and the Khopoli–Pali road, or via Panvel and Wadkhal. From Mumbai or Pune, plan on roughly 3 to 3.5 hours. There is space to park in the village.

By public transport, take a train to Khopoli or Karjat, or a state bus to Pali, then a local rickshaw or jeep to Thakurwadi. Allow 4 to 5 hours one way and start very early.

The climb

The most popular trail starts at Thakurwadi. It begins gently through fields and scrub, then climbs steadily up the hillside. On the main route you will find stone steps and a couple of iron ladders at the steeper sections. They are sturdy, but take them slowly, especially on the way down.

There is very little shade or water on the way up, so the early start matters. Leave the village by 7:00 AM in winter and you will be on top before the sun gets strong.

Tip: the plateau is big and paths split. Note the gate you came in by, so you take the same way down.

What to see on top

The top of Sudhagad is not a narrow summit but a wide plateau, and that is its charm. Give yourself time to wander.

• Bhoraidevi temple, the heart of the fort, simple and well kept
• Maha Darwaja, the grandest of the three main gates, with thick stone walls and bastions
• Dindi Darwaja, a smaller gate with a design often compared to Raigad's main entrance
• Pant Sachiv wada, the old residence of the fort's custodians
• Two lakes, old tanks, a large granary, carved tombs behind the temple and the ruins of two Shiva temples
• The edges, for long views across the Sahyadri ranges and, on clear winter days, ridge after ridge to the horizon

Staying the night on the fort

Sudhagad is one of the few forts near Mumbai where trekkers commonly stay overnight. Groups sleep in the Pant Sachiv wada or at the Bhoraidevi temple, and in season locals sometimes cook simple meals for overnight trekkers. Winter nights on the plateau are cold and the sky is full of stars. If you plan to stay, ask in Thakurwadi first, carry your own food and a warm layer, and leave the place cleaner than you found it.

What to carry

• At least 2 to 3 litres of water per person. Some guides mention tanks on top, but don't count on drinking water
• Snacks or a packed lunch, plus some glucose or electrolyte powder
• Shoes with a good grip (not new ones, and not flat sneakers)
• A cap, sunscreen and a light jacket for windy edges and cold mornings
• A small torch if you might come down late
• A bag to carry your rubbish back down

A few honest notes

• Go with someone who knows the route if it's your first trek. The plateau has many paths.
• Start down by 3:00 PM in winter. It gets dark quickly after sunset, and the ladders are not fun by torchlight.
• Be gentle in the temple. It is a living place of worship, not just a ruin.
• Check locally about forest rules, entry and overnight stays before you go. These can change.

Make a weekend of it

Sudhagad pairs well with a darshan at Ballaleshwar in Pali, the Ashtavinayak temple 11 km away, and an afternoon soak at the Unhere hot springs near Pali. If you'd rather not drive back the same day, there are homestays along the Khopoli–Pali road, including ours, so you can climb with fresh legs the next morning.

If you enjoyed this, you may also like our guide to the Raigad fort trek in the Journal.